Saturday 8 October 2022

Rhodes Old Town

The buses into town stop just outside our hotel every half hour (ish) and so after an adequate, late, breakfast we wandered down about 11:00 to catch the bus but unfortunately the first one was full.  A few other people (Germans) also waiting decided to go by taxi as they were in groups of 4 and it worked out the same cost, but we hung around and luckily there was plenty of room on the next one.  With helpful directions from a cafĂ© owner in the newer part of town we found our way to the old walls.  The architecture of the Old Town reflects the diverse history of Rhodes and its occupants over the centuries including Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and Italians.  In the early 14th Century, it became home to the Order of the Knights Hospitaller of St John which had been ousted from the Holy Lands.  The Italians rebuilt large sections during the first half of the 20th century including this entrance known as Freedom Gate.






Unfortunately the Old Town was heaving with tourists, including Day Trippers from the huge cruise ships moored in the commercial harbour (like the Azamara Quest with its 690 pax).   


But rather than drive myself mad this holiday waiting for clear shots, I’ve decided to embrace the crowds and use them for scale.


Aphrodite's Temple (or a pile of stones)

This rather splendid looking building is the 16th century Inn of Auvergne built for one of the three French speaking administrative divisions (langues) of the Knights.  


The fountain in front has a dolphin spout


There are cats everywhere and this one was enjoying a quiet nap before the restaurant opened.



Talking of cats, I'm slightly concerned about the size of them on this island if this is a cat flap?


A few random street scenes including this fountain, which I'd assumed was of Middle Eastern influence but according to our guidebook is in fact Italian, dominating Hippocrates Square. 



This was the Kastellania, a medieval courthouse and tribunal of the Knights completed in 1507 and restored by the Italians c.1930, it now houses the public library and town archives.


Another beautiful building and worth hanging around a while to get a people free shot of the steps.


As I was taking these photos the shop owner came out and I thought he was going to tell me to stop (a la Marrakech) but he was quite happy and just wanted to chat, although I didn't really know what to say when he told me he was due to realise his dream of moving to Brighton in November!




Lots of shops selling leather goods, including sandals and some fabulous handbags.  Ian bought a couple of belts at a very good price and then had them shortened to fit (surprising, I know, but the ones he liked were XXL!)


I wonder if these Gladiator boots are still in fashion.


There are lots of tiny lanes and alleyways running off the main streets, but unfortunately for me their charm is invariably ruined by parked motorcycles.




Ian and I often "eria'ise" things but hadn't thought of a Waffleria before - what a fabulous word.  


I'm sure we would have enjoyed the views from this rooftop restaurant but it wasn't worth subjecting Ian's knee to the climb.


Ruins of the 15th c. Holy Trinity Church and St Catherine.




Looking round 180 deg. I was surprised to see this window glazed.



As I said earlier, from the air Rhodes Town seems to have 3 distinct harbour areas; Mandraki Harbour where the Colossus allegedly stood across the entrance (but actually didn't) which is where the luxury yachts and fishing vessels dock, and two for cruise ships/commercial traffic.

Views towards Mandraki Harbour (the other side of the walls).





These iconic windmills, built in the 14th century, stand on the eastern breakwater of Mandraki Harbour and are actually very difficult to get a decent angle on (hence the number of attempts).






At the end of the breakwater stands St Nicholas Fort with the lighthouse on top.



From the end of the breakwater you look across to the entrance of Mandraki Harbour and whilst the Colossus of Rhodes certainly existed, it is now accepted that it most certainly didn't straddle the harbour entrance as so often depicted, although its exact location remains a matter of debate.  At 33m high it was about the same height as the Statue of Liberty and at the time of construction (292 BC) the tallest statue in the ancient world - unfortunately it only survived 54 years before being destroyed by an earthquake.


And looking back towards the town.


Back in the town we decided it was time for a sit down and a refreshing beer and actually it was a lovely drink.


Look at the size of some of the drinks on offer though!



The Grand Master's Palace which was extensively renovated by the Italians.


Sad to see one so young begging.


The Street of Knights - absolutely impossible to get a shot clear of people.


I can't remember where I took this but these knights reminded me of my fellow vaccination volunteers in our hi-viz vests!


We climbed this staircase purely because it looked interesting.


At the top were a couple of art exhibitions including one by a French photographer who specialised in using glass balls - apparently this was a set up for his latest masterpiece and he got a little excited thinking I'd taken a photo of it - of course I told him I'd deleted it, ooops!


By now our feet and Ian's poor knee were aching so we headed back to the bus stop and caught the next bus back to our hotel for a well earned rest and a dip in the pool (Ian only - freezing!)